Venice Carnival: Nine Months of Preparation for One Unforgettable Week in Rococo Costume on the Grand Canal

Returning to Venice in February for another Carnival felt different this time. We had our own Rococo costumes. It took over nine months to select the perfect fabrics, patterns, and accessories, with numerous fittings throughout the process. We arrived in Venice with many suitcases in order to bring the costumes over.

As usual, we parked our rental car at Marco Polo Airport. From there, we took our pre-arranged private motoscafo (taxi boat). In just over thirty minutes, we arrived at the Sant’Angelo ferry stop on the Grand Canal, the nearest landing to our rented apartment in Ca’ Sant’Angelo.

We had several pieces of luggage and a wig in its own case. We had forgotten that we needed to cross two small bridges between the ferry stop and the apartment. Fortunately, Paolo, the manager of the Ca’ Sant’Angelo Apartments met us at the ferry stop and carried some of the bags. That helped considerably, though we resolved to find a better solution for the return trip a week later. Our apartment was on the piano nobile (no elevator, as we had known in advance) and we liked it very much. We were so happy to be back in Venice for Carnival, that we soon forgot about carrying all the luggage up the stairs. More importantly, the wig, which we had special made for this event from the creative Hooligan Hairpieces, made it in one piece.

We really enjoyed the apartment and its location from the moment we arrived. The view over Campo Sant'Angelo proved endlessly entertaining. Every day brought a new cast of musicians, dancers, and people in costume right below our windows.

After settling in, we had some drinks at one of our favorite places, La Caravella, a delightful bar inside the Saturnia Hotel. From there, we took a short walk to Ristorante Acqua Pazza, known for its Amalfi Coast-inspired seafood. It was our first visit, and the experience was unremarkable.

The following day was spent walking around the city and searching for masks to complete our costumes. It was important to have authentic masks from Venice. As usual, we stopped at Cà del Sol, a great costume and mask shop located at Castello 4964 near San Marco.

Having visited Venice many times, we skipped the main museums on this trip and just strolled around the city taking in the sights. That evening we had dinner at Osteria Vino Vino, one of our favorite restaurants near the Fenice Theatre.

Because we are celebrating our 40th anniversary this year, we wanted some professional photos in our costumes. We booked the photographer several months in advance through Mike Bradshaw at Picster, who works with a network of talented photographers across Venice and other European cities. As a precaution in case of bad weather, we arranged two separate shoots on different days.

Our first photographer met us in Campo Sant’Angelo and immediately began capturing images around the square, leading us all the way to the Accademia Bridge. After the one hour shoot, we had lunch on St. Mark’s Square at Quadrino, a Venetian bistro tucked inside one of Venice’s oldest coffeehouses in the main square. The space was restored with the help of designer Philippe Starck, celebrating the city’s heritage beautifully. The décor far outshines the food, but we still enjoyed the occasion and taking photos inside a beautiful restaurant with our costumes.

The following day, Valentine's Day, it rained heavily, and we were glad we had not scheduled a photographer for that day (we knew it would be crowded and harder to get good photos on a holiday). We made a reservation for lunch at Trattoria Dona Onesta, a delightful, traditional Venetian restaurant situated in the Dorsoduro district of Venice. A small terrace right by the canal enhances its charm. In fact, the terrace is so compact that waiters serve the outdoor tables by passing plates through the restaurant window. On our way back to the apartment, we stopped at the Terraza Aperol, a must-visit for Spritz enthusiasts.

Not feeling particularly hungry that evening, but still wanting to mark the occasion, we dined at Antico Martini, a sophisticated restaurant located on the steps of La Fenice Theatre. Unfortunately, the experience was disappointing. Although we greatly enjoy Vino Vino, which is operated by the same owners, Antico Martini did not meet our expectations. Both the food and the exorbitant wine prices left us unimpressed.

The next afternoon, we met our second photographer in Campo Sant’Angelo for another costume session. We were going to do a photo shoot with just normal clothing, but we had so much fun in our costumes, we decided to wear them again for the second shoot. The entire cityscape of Venice resembles a film set, and our photographer took full advantage of it. Everywhere you walk, people are in traditional rococo costumes and it felt like we had stepped back in time.

Afterwards, we navigated through the Carnival crowds to St. Mark’s Square and visited Caffè Florian, the oldest coffeehouse in Italy, operating since 1720. During Carnival, Florian transforms into a living tableau of Venetian history. Its gilded mirrors, frescoed salons, and red velvet banquettes provide the ideal setting for the masked elegance. Guests appear in intricate 18th-century costumes, creating a theatrical and intimate ambiance. Each visitor becomes both an observer and a part of the spectacle. Experiencing this during Carnival is truly essential.

Still wearing our Rococo costumes, we headed directly from Florian to Ristorante Sant’Angelo for dinner. Situated in the same building as our apartment, we've dined here several times before. The lasagna is outstanding, and the rest of the menu is just as remarkable

On our final full day in Venice, we explored the quieter streets of the Castello district and enjoyed lunch at the Hard Rock Café. After over two weeks of eating pasta, we were eager for a change and decided to share one of their famous fajitas. From the second floor, the views of tourists boarding their gondolas was very entertaining.

For a light dinner, we returned to Trattoria Cherubino, another lovely little restaurant we have visited multiple times and always enjoy.

Our trip ended the next morning. We were lucky to find a porter online who met us at our apartment. His name is Nicola and you can reach him at 328-2696025. He was excellent in carrying our suitcases downstairs and transporting them back to Sant’Angelo, our meeting point with the motoscafo water taxi. This single booking made the end of our trip significantly smoother. The return journey across the lagoon by motoscafo is always a pleasure and somehow makes leaving Venice slightly less difficult.

Nine months of preparation for a single extraordinary week — was it worth it? Without question! Venice Carnival is one of those unique experiences that surpasses all expectations, and participating in traditional rococo costume made it incredible. We returned home with breathtaking photos and unforgettable memories.