The Best of Emilia-Romagna: A Tour of Parma, Bologna, and the World of Ferrari

We drove from Milan to Parma in the morning and arrived at our hotel in the early afternoon. We stayed at the Grand Hotel di Parma, a beautiful building that once served as an elegant hospital complex in the early 1900s. Our room was beautifully decorated, with one of the highest ceilings and tallest curtains we have ever seen in a hotel room.

Driving around the center of Parma is no easy feat, as the city uses the dreaded ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone) system, which will land you a traffic ticket every time you venture into the old town. We would strongly suggest walking or taking a taxi instead.

The hotel is a short walk from the historic center — about 15 minutes on foot — and we made our way to Piazza Garibaldi, where we enjoyed our first tasting of prosciutto and Parmigiano on a sun-drenched terrace. A delightful surprise for February!

A short stroll brought us to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Steccata, a Renaissance gem tucked just off the main square. Modest in scale from the outside, the basilica is truly breathtaking inside.

From there, it was on to Piazza Duomo, home to most of Parma's greatest architectural treasures. The Cathedral is free to enter and showcases stunning Romanesque architecture, crowned by a magnificent dome painted by Correggio depicting the Assumption of the Virgin. Next door, the rose-tinted Baptistery is an absolute must, and the nearby Diocesan Museum offers fascinating additional context on the city's rich artistic history. Together, these sites paint a vivid picture of Parma's historical and cultural character.

We rounded off the day with a wonderful dinner at Trattoria Corrieri, one of the city's great institutions, established in 1916. The atmosphere was lively and buzzing, filled almost entirely with locals, always a great sign.

The next morning, we set off from the Grand Hotel di Parma just before ten, winding through the gentle hills south of the city toward Langhirano. Our first stop was Salumificio Conti,one of the region's most respected prosciutto producers. Being a Sunday, we were treated to a private tour by Michela Conti, the owner herself.

With no employees around, Michela personally walked us through every stage of the process, from the careful application of sea salt to the long, patient months of aging. The tasting at the end was the real reward: melt-in-your-mouth slices of aged Parma ham.

Just a short drive away, we arrived at Caseificio Saliceto for a behind-the-scenes look at the making of Parmigiano Reggiano. Some of the cheesemakers were still working while our tour guide was explaining the cheese making process. After the tour, we were able to taste both 24 and 36-month versions of the parmesan. If you're ever in Parma, this half-day loop through the hills is absolutely not to be missed.

To end the day, we had dinner at Ristorante Cocchi, a local institution that feels like the very heart of Parma’s food scene. We started simply—and perfectly—with silky prosciutto and chunks of aged Parmigiano. Since it was Sunday, we were lucky enough to catch their famous homemade lasagna on the menu.

Leaving Parma behind, we drove toward Bologna with a few unmissable stops in Italy's "Motor Valley." It is important to note that Ferrari actually has two distinct museums, and we made sure to see both. Our first stop was the Museo Enzo Ferrari in the heart of Modena. This sleek, yellow-roofed architectural marvel is built around Enzo’s birthplace and focuses on the man himself. It feels more like a gallery than a garage, tracing the full arc of the Ferrari story in a beautifully designed space.

Just a short distance away, we made a quieter, more reflective stop at the grave of Luciano Pavarotti. The legendary tenor was born and is buried near Modena.

From there, we drove twenty minutes to Maranello for the second half of the experience: the Museo Ferrari. While the Modena site is about the man, the Maranello site is about the racing heart of the company. We joined the Ferrari factory tour, and climbing aboard the shuttle bus to roll through the factory gates felt genuinely surreal. Seeing hundreds of Ferraris around the production buildings is a unique sight you won't find anywhere else. Just before the tour ended, we passed the Fiorano Circuit, Ferrari’s private track used for top-secret development and testing. We finished the day exploring the museum's interior, where the F1 Room and the Trophy Room (the "Victory Hall") truly shine. These displays of silver and carbon fiber make Maranello one of the most incredible automotive museums in the world.

Upon reaching Bologna, we checked into the Art Hotel Commercianti. While the location is unbeatable, right next to the Duomo, getting there by car is a true test of character. The hotel actually sent us a PDF with 20 photos just to navigate the arrival! Honestly, you need some serious European driving experience (and a very calm co-pilot) to avoid a total nervous breakdown.

We managed to survive the labyrinth, handing the keys to the valet for the underground garage with a sigh of relief. From there, the challenge shifted to the elevator, which was roughly the size of a postage stamp. It was a tight squeeze for our luggage, especially since we were hauling two extra suitcases specifically for our upcoming Venice Carnival costumes! Despite the "luggage logistics," the property is very nice. It’s housed in an 11th-century medieval building that once served as the town hall. Between the history, the incredible breakfast buffet, and the prime location, it was worth every tight turn.

On our way to dinner, we made a quick stop at Enoteca Italiana. This legendary neighborhood wine bar actually took home the "Oscar for Best Wine Shop in Italy" back in 2002, and it’s still run by the same dedicated owners today. It’s the perfect spot to toast to the evening before a short, two-minute stroll to Ristorante Donatello Stepping into Donatello feels like traveling back in time; the Art Nouveau décor is stunning, and the restaurant has been family-run since 1903. If you’re looking for a temple of authentic Bolognese gastronomy, this is it.

The following day, we set out to explore Bologna on foot, starting at the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio. It is truly one of the city’s most underrated gems. Joining a guided English tour, we wandered through grand academic halls where the walls are lined with thousands of student coats of arms—a colorful testament to centuries of scholars. The highlight, however, was stepping into the Teatro Anatomico. This 17th-century anatomy theater, carved entirely from spruce, is a masterpiece of Baroque craftsmanship. It felt more like an exquisite art gallery than a lecture hall; standing there, you can almost hear the echoes of the medical pioneers who once filled its benches.

From the halls of the Archiginnasio, it was just a short stroll to Piazza Maggiore and Piazza del Nettuno. We spent a few moments admiring the grand façades of the Palazzo d’Accursio and the Palazzo del Podestà, which frame the square like a medieval stage set. Then, we stepped into the cool, towering interior of the Basilica di San Petronio. While the church itself is massive, its most intriguing feature is hidden on the floor: the Cassini Meridian Line. It is the longest indoor sundial in the world, a 67-meter masterpiece of 17th-century astronomy that tracks the solar year with pinpoint accuracy across the marble.

The afternoon took us to the iconic Due Torri, the two leaning medieval towers that have defined Bologna's skyline for centuries. We also made a stop at the Finestrella di Via Piella, a tiny window opening onto a hidden canal that some people call "Little Venice". We were not very impressed and went back to the center of town, which is a great place for shopping. We had dinner a few steps from our hotel at Vicolo Colombina, where we enjoyed authentic Bolognese flavors and handmade pastas.

What an extraordinary few days in Emilia-Romagna. From savoring world-class Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano to the adrenaline spike of walking through the Ferrari factory in Maranello, this journey was a feast for the senses. Whether we were exploring the quiet hills of Parma or the medieval porticos of Bologna, every stop offered something unexpected. The region's unique blend of culinary tradition, art, and automotive passion made for an unforgettable trip.