Enchanting Laos

Our flight departed from Chiang Rai in the early afternoon, and we reached Vientiane shortly before 8 pm after a brief stopover in Bangkok. We once again chose to fly with Thai Airways, known for its excellent safety record. Vientiane, the capital city of Laos, is situated along a bend of the Mekong River. We spent one night at the Crowne Plaza Hotel Vientiane, which provided an airport pick-up service. The hotel, located downtown just a 10-minute drive away, is very modern with friendly staff. Initially, we planned to stay two nights in Vientiane and two nights in Luang Prabang, but after further research, we decided to extend our stay in Luang Prabang by an additional night. We were pleased with this decision.

The following day, we had about five hours to explore the capital of Laos before catching our train. We opted for taxis and tuk-tuks, which significantly saved us time. Our tour began with a visit to Pha That Luang, the national emblem of Laos, renowned for its gold-covered stupa. Our next destination was Patuxai (Victory Gate), an iconic war monument resembling the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, but with Laotian architectural touches. We ascended to the top and took in the panoramic city views. Each floor features exhibits with photos and insights into the country's history, making the small entrance fee well worth it. Before lunch, we visited Wat Si Saket, a historic Buddhist temple housing thousands of Buddha statues. We then grabbed a quick meal at the Hard Rock Café before checking out of our hotel and taking a 30-minute taxi ride to the train station.

We bought first-class tickets, costing approximately $40 each, for the two-hour journey. The station is quite modern and resembles an airport terminal. The Laos-China Railway, which began operations in 2021, was mainly financed by China with an investment of about $6 billion USD. We traveled on the speed train, which operates at 100 miles per hour.

When we arrived at the Luang Prabang station, it was dark, and it took us a few minutes to locate the hotel’s driver. The station is somewhat distant from the city, nearly a 30-minute drive away. We stayed for three nights at the 3 Nagas boutique hotel, an Accor property within their MGallery Hotel Collection. The building is a historic French colonial structure. It features 15 rooms spread across two heritage homes, a restaurant, and a charming bar across the street. While there is no fitness center, pool, or spa, guests can access these amenities at the nearby sister hotel, the Sofitel Luang Prabang. We enjoyed a delightful dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, which offers both Laotian and Western cuisines. The terrace is ideal for people-watching and soaking in the atmosphere of the UNESCO World Heritage city. We also had all our breakfasts there.

The next day, we got up very early to join the Alms Giving Ceremony at 5:30 a.m. This event takes place daily on the street right in front of the 3 Nagas. Hundreds of monks and novices from Luang Prabang's 35 temples walk silently, meditating while they collect their daily alms, which usually consist of sticky rice, fruits, or other food offerings from the locals. Visitors, like us, can also take part by buying food from local vendors for a few dollars and kneeling on the ground with baskets of offerings. It's a unique experience that makes the early rise worthwhile.

Following breakfast, we began our city exploration on foot, starting with Wat Nong Sikhounmuang, a temple renowned for its impressive golden stupa and serene atmosphere. After that, we chose to ascend the 300 steps to the summit of Phousi Hill before the temperature rose too much. The views of Luang Prabang and the Mekong River from there are breathtaking. The climb was worthwhile. We concluded the morning at the market and strolling along the Mekong.

We had earlier reserved the one-hour Orange Robe Tour for early afternoon. Although it cost just a few dollars, it was disappointing because you aren't allowed to enter any temples or houses. Essentially, it involves a discussion about Buddhism near a temple, despite the website stating it is “a guided tour of a local temple.” I wouldn't choose to do it again.

After this setback we walked to the Royal Palace Museum, where you learn about the history of Laos and visit the former royal residence. The grounds also include a beautiful temple, the Wat Ho Pha Bang. We ended our daily excursions at Wat Xiengthong, one of Luang Prabang's most famous and beautifully decorated temples.

We were looking forward to our evening with dinner reservations at Manda de Laos, a stunning restaurant surrounded by lily ponds. The restaurant's website describes the ponds as “UNESCO-classified” to indicate that the location is within a UNESCO-listed area, although it is not a heritage site itself. We enjoyed a delightful dinner. Stay after sunset, as the restaurant becomes even more beautiful at night. Afterwards, we strolled to the Night Market, a lively area famous for its handicrafts, textiles, and souvenirs.

We had scheduled a tour to the Kuang Si Waterfall for the following day through Viator prior to our trip. After not receiving any response from the local tour agency despite sending several emails, we arranged for another driver. That morning, both drivers arrived at 9:00 am. We explained our situation to the Viator contractor, and upon returning home, we received a refund from Viator. The drive to the falls took about an hour. The main waterfall is easily reachable from the entrance with a short walk. The turquoise natural pools are stunning, and the water temperature was comfortable for swimming. The waterfalls were among the most beautiful we had ever encountered. On our way back, we visited the Bear Rescue Center, conveniently located near the park entrance. Returning to the city, we stopped at Ban Na Ouan village, a cultural site where visitors can explore Hmong heritage and culture. It provides insight into traditional Hmong life, featuring a small museum with antique artifacts and displays created by local villagers. We enjoyed our time there and participated in the tour they offer, which was an excellent way to learn more about their culture.

Our final stop was a textile crafts center in Luang Prabang, the Ock Pop Tok, which means “East Meets West” in Lao. The owners are British and Laotian. We had lunch by the pool at the Sofitel, a beautiful and tranquil property. It’s a lovely resort with many amenities, though a bit removed from the main attractions. I would definitely choose to stay again at the 3 Nagas for its charm and hospitality.

On our way to dinner, we paused for a drink at Wine & Co, a local wine bar run by a Swiss man and his Laotian wife. For our final night, we had booked a table at Princess Restaurant, situated within the Villa Santi Hotel. They offer delicious local and international cuisine. This elegant restaurant was originally a royal master bedroom in the 19th century.

Overall, our time in Laos was incredible. We thoroughly enjoyed the UNESCO-listed small city of Luang Prabang and hope to return to explore more of this beautiful country.