From the Basque Coast to the Capital: A Journey Through Northern Spain and Madrid

We had spent over a year planning our trip to Spain, with the highlight being the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, which is detailed in a separate blog. We landed in Bilbao around 9:00 AM and picked up our Hertz rental car. Since two more people joined our trip, we had to exchange our German four-door sedan for a Ford Tourneo, a versatile vehicle based on the Ford Transit Commercial. Although it looked unattractive and really felt like a commercial vehicle, it offered plenty of space in the back for our four suitcases and carry-ons. The van's height and width occasionally made parking and navigating narrow streets challenging. Fortunately, we managed to complete the trip without a single scratch.

The airport was approximately 20 minutes away. We checked into the Hotel Ercilla de Bilbao, Autograph Collection, situated in the city center. After leaving our luggage in the room, we began exploring the area and drove to San Sebastián. The journey took just over an hour. We parked near the Kursaal Conference Centre, a venue for events, exhibitions, and concerts, designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. We then walked to Zurriola Beach, a relaxed surfing spot. Later, we crossed the bridge and strolled through the Parte Vieja (Old Town) and visited the Church of St Mary (Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Coro), a Baroque-style Roman Catholic church. On our way to the renowned La Concha Beach we paused at the City Council, constructed in 1887 and formerly the city's main casino. We concluded our visit at La Concha Beach, one of Europe's most iconic urban beaches, stretching about 4,400 feet, allowing for walking, biking, or driving with parking available mid-way.

In the evening, when we returned to Bilbao, we relaxed with drinks at La Terraza, our hotel's rooftop bar, before making our way to Namaste, a nearby Indian restaurant with outstanding reviews. We chose to dine outside. The food was superb, and the staff was extremely friendly.

In the morning, we walked to the Guggenheim Museum, which we had scheduled to visit the following day. We explored the exterior of Bilbao’s iconic landmark, designed by Frank Gehry, and took photos of the Puppy Sculpture, a large flower-adorned dog by American artist Jeff Koons. We also enjoyed the Salve Bridge & Nervión River Walk before taking a taxi to Casco Viejo (Old Town). We quickly learned that using taxis in Spain is more economical and faster than Uber. Our old city tour began at Plaza Nueva, a vibrant square lined with pintxos bars, reminiscent of a smaller version of Plaza Mayor in Madrid. Our next destination was the Santiago Cathedral, a magnificent Gothic cathedral situated next to the Ribera Market, one of Spain’s largest indoor markets offering local Basque cuisine.

The next day, we returned to the Guggenheim Museum. While the museum itself is fascinating, it can be overwhelming if contemporary art isn't your preference. Nonetheless, it's worth visiting just to admire the building's interior structure. We then drove to the Vizcaya Bridge (Puente Colgante), a suspension bridge connecting the towns of Portugalete and Las Arenas. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2006, it is the oldest shuttle bridge worldwide. Upon arrival, we queued in our car, purchased a ticket for the crossing, and within minutes, we were transported to the opposite side of the bridge. It was quite impressive.

Afterwards, we proceeded to Getxo, a delightful seaside town featuring beaches and stunning grand mansions.

The next destination we visited was Burgos. On our way, we stopped in Frias, officially recognized as the smallest city in Spain with a population of under 300, yet boasting a rich medieval heritage. We spent an hour exploring the city. Parking is required outside the town, as only residents are permitted to drive through the very narrow streets. Before heading to our hotel, we stopped at Burgos Castle to enjoy the view. The castle is currently closed due to ongoing renovations. We checked in at the AC Hotel Burgos, a modern establishment situated in a pedestrian area near the Gothic Cathedral, the river, and Las Huelgas Monastery.

We discovered from the concierge that a festival was taking place during our stay, the Fiestas de San Pedro y San Pablo, locally known as the Sampedros. This weeklong celebration features parades, dancing, concerts, and fireworks. The city was adorned with decorations, and music filled the air. We began exploring the city and visited the Burgos Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This stunning Gothic church is among the most magnificent in Spain.

We enjoyed strolling along the Paseo del Espolón, a picturesque riverside promenade with cafés and sculptures. One of the places we liked least was the Museum of Human Evolution, where the extensive reading was overwhelming, and many of the fossils displayed are replicas. We learned that the originals are at Atapuerca, the site of some of the world's most significant human fossil discoveries. Tours there require an appointment and are mostly conducted in Spanish.

On the day we departed from Burgos, we visited the Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas, an abbey that serves as the final resting place for nine kings and queens. Unfortunately, guided tours are required, and most are conducted in Spanish. However, we managed to grasp some details by using our phones to translate the guide's remarks. 

Before arriving at our next hotel, we paused in San Millán de la Cogolla, a village renowned for its twin monasteries, Yuso and Suso (Monasterio de San Millán de Yuso and Monasterio de San Millán de Suso), which were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. Suso was closed for renovations, so we only visited Yuso, which requires a guided tour to explore. The tour was conducted solely in Spanish, despite 90% of the group being English speakers. The monastery is remarkably impressive, especially given its remote location.

Our hotel was situated in the Rioja wine region, near the city of Haro. We stayed in Brinas at Palacio Tondon (Autograph Collection), a charming boutique property with 33 rooms on the banks of the Ebro River. Originally constructed in the 1500s, this historic palace combines traditional stone architecture with modern glass and metal extensions. After checking in, we toured the property and particularly enjoyed their old wine cave, “El Calado,” a historic 17th-century room featuring a natural waterfall. We had an outstanding dinner at their Gran Reserva restaurant. The food was among the best we had during our trip, and the service was excellent.  

The following morning, we embarked on our two-day exploration of the Rioja region, beginning with a drive through the village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra, renowned for the remnants of its medieval castle dating back to the 10th century. We stopped at Bodegas Ysios to take photos. This winery has a very interesting design. Crafted by the esteemed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the winery's structure is a marvel of contemporary design. Its wavy roofline echoes the surrounding mountains, providing a striking visual contrast with the vineyards. Since they don't accept walk-ins, we enjoyed n excellent glass of wine at Bodegas Javier San Pedro Ortega, a family-run winery just across the street. We proceeded to Laguardia, an enchanting walled town in the heart of Rioja Alavesa, famous for its charming streets, historic architecture, and sweeping views of the surrounding vineyards. We parked at the town's entrance and strolled through its pedestrian-only historic center. We enjoyed a traditional Basque lunch on a terrace in the town's center. In the Basque region, they refer to their tapas as “pintxos” or “pinchos” in Spanish. 

After lunch, we headed to Elciego, home to the renowned Bodega Marques de Riscal. This winery was named the Best Vineyard in the World in 2024. On the premises, there is a well-known hotel designed by Frank Gehry, the architect behind the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The titanium structure features a Marriott Luxury Collection Hotel, a Michelin-starred restaurant, a vinotherapy spa, museum spaces, and the historic winery and cellars. The winery tour was highly enjoyable. The price includes a wine tasting paired with some Spanish appetizers.

The next day, we headed straight to Logroño, the capital of the La Rioja region. After parking downtown, we explored the area on foot. Our first visit was to the Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda, a magnificent cathedral showcasing a blend of Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance architecture. Just a few minutes away is the Mercado de Abastos, an indoor market where locals purchase meats, fish, vegetables, and spices, also known as the San Blas market. We strolled along Laurel Street (Calle Laurel), a renowned street celebrated for its pintxos, bars, and wine taverns. Unfortunately, since we visited before lunch, it was relatively quiet. Our exploration of the city concluded at the Museo de la Rioja, a complimentary museum housed in an 18th-century baroque palace, where you can discover the culture, art, and wine history of La Rioja. 

We drove to Haro and explored the delightful town, the capital of the Rioja Alta wine region. We spent time at the main square, Plaza de la Paz, a vibrant area filled with cafes, restaurants, and shops. We also visited the Iglesia de Santo Tomás, a stunning church from the 16th century featuring an impressive Baroque façade. Our next destination was Sajazarra, one of the most beautiful villages in La Rioja. The medieval Castle of Sajazarra is privately owned but can be admired from the outside. The Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción, a lovely Romanesque church with a striking façade, was closed, but we still appreciated its exterior. We strolled through the narrow streets of Sajazarra's historic center, lined with stone houses decorated with colorful flowerpots. The town exudes a very peaceful atmosphere.

Next, we headed to our final visit of the day, an English tour of the Bodegas Conde de Los Andes, a winery established in the 19th century, which was acquired and fully restored in 2014 by Muriel Wines. The winery, a favorite of Ernest Hemingway, boasts over 1 km of medieval "calados", impressive underground tunnels from the 14th–15th centuries. You can capture great photos in the Sistine Chapel, the cave storing their finest vintage wines, such as 1892, 1918, 1948, and 1964. Our tour was fantastic. Only one another visitor was supposed to join us, but he was delayed, so we enjoyed a private tour. At the end, we savored the traditional wine tasting and appetizers. The latecomer arrived, having been delayed at another winery, and turned out to be a wine importer from Dublin. He was accompanied by the Sales Director of the winery. We received excellent explanations from these professionals and had the chance to sample additional wines not usually offered during the tour and tasting. What a wonderful afternoon we had!

The following day, we headed to Pamplona (which will be covered in its own blog), the primary purpose of our trip to Spain. En route, we paused to explore the Monastery of Santa Maria de Irache), which has served as a pilgrims’ hospice, university, military hospital, religious college, and was supposed to become a Parador but the project has been pending since at least 2012 due to the economic situation. These varied roles have made the Monastery of Irache one of the most significant monumental sites in Navarre. Just a short walk down the hill, you can enjoy complimentary red wine from the renowned wine fountain. The monastery is a notable stop on the Camino de Santiago, a series of pilgrimage routes that lead to the shrine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia (northwestern Spain). At the fountain, we encountered pilgrims who had been journeying for months from places as distant as Bavaria in Germany and Lyon in France.

We arrived in Pamplona (separate blog) early in the afternoon and spent the next four days experiencing the Running of the Bulls.

After our stop in Pamplona, we were quite exhausted and drove straight to Toledo. The journey takes 5 hours without breaks, combining interstates and two-way roads. We stayed at the Hotel Eugenia de Montijo, Autograph Collection, which was once the palace of Empress Eugenia de Montijo, the wife of French Emperor Napoleon III. The property is elegant and stunning. Although they don't have a private parking garage, there's a very secure public parking garage just 2 minutes away. The streets in Toledo are very narrow, so it's best to avoid renting a wide vehicle. We enjoyed a lovely dinner at La Malquerida, an eclectic restaurant in the old town.

Toledo, a UNESCO World Heritage city, is renowned for its rich tapestry of Roman, Visigoth, Muslim, Jewish, and Christian influences. Our visit began at the Catedral Primada Santa María, one of the most magnificent Gothic cathedrals in Europe. Although we had been there many years ago, we had forgotten its impressive grandeur and beauty. In the sacristy, you can find El Greco's painting "The Disrobing of Christ." The Chapel of the New Monarchs contains the tombs of King Henry III and his wife, Catherine of Lancaster. Additionally, King Alfonso VII, the only Spanish king crowned emperor on Spanish soil, is also interred in the cathedral. There is much to explore, and it took us nearly two hours to tour the church. We later relaxed on a terrace in Plaza de Zocodover, the town’s historic square.

Afterwards, we strolled to the Alcázar of Toledo, which currently houses the Spanish Army Museum. This building's origins trace back to Roman times, having served various purposes over the years, such as a Roman praetorium, a Muslim fortress, and a royal palace. We enjoyed visiting the museum, which features significant collections assembled since the early 19th century, including knives, swords, firearms, artillery, flags, and uniforms. Later, we walked down to the Jewish Quarter and visited the Church of Santo Tomé, mainly known for housing El Greco's painting The Burial of the Count of Orgaz. We explored two more places: Santa María la Blanca, a former synagogue with Moorish architecture, and the Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes, with its beautiful cloisters. We had aperitifs at our hotel before heading to dinner at Splendido Trattoria, a cozy Italian restaurant located within the Hotel Pintor El Greco.

The following day marked our last with the rental car, so we chose to visit El Escorial, located north of Madrid, before returning the car in the city. El Escorial is the most significant architectural monument of the Spanish Renaissance. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Spain’s most popular attractions. We had pre-booked an English tour and explored the Basilica, the Palace, the Battle Room, and the Pantheon, which was the most impressive. This is where Spanish monarchs have been interred since Charles V. After a fascinating tour, we independently visited the Royal Library, renowned for its 54-meter-long vault adorned with frescoes by Pellegrino Tibaldi. An interesting detail is that the books are placed on the shelves with the spines facing inward to protect the gold lettering on the titles.

Our next stop was the Valley of Cuelgamuros (formerly known as the Valley of the Fallen), constructed to commemorate those who lost their lives during the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939). It has been a source of controversy due to its ties with the regime of dictator General Franco. Franco was once buried there, but in 2019, his remains were exhumed and reinterred at Mingorrubio Cemetery in El Pardo alongside his wife. You must check in at the gate in your car and then drive uphill for about 15 minutes. We were nearly the only visitors, and it took us some time to locate the entrance to the basilica, which is partly carved into a massive granite mountain, with a huge cross towering above it. It was definitely worth the slight detour.

The drive from there to central Madrid took under an hour. We stayed at the Palace Hotel, A Luxury Collection Hotel, which had recently been rebranded after a two-year renovation. The place is breathtaking. The iconic La Cúpula Restaurant & Bar has been restored to its former glory. Its dome, made up of 1,456 individual pieces, was completely dismantled, cataloged, and refurbished to its original colors. We returned our rental car at the Atocha train station. Although it was supposed to be just 5 minutes from the hotel, by the time we refilled the car, found the rental parking lot, and took a taxi back to the hotel, it took us over an hour. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner at Krachai, an authentic Thai restaurant recommended by the concierge. Most Thai restaurants in Madrid are operated by Chinese, so it's essential to ask around and research to find a genuine Thai place. 

After enjoying an elegant and delicious buffet breakfast at our hotel, we took a taxi to the Royal Palace Europe's largest palaces. We had pre-booked our self-guided tour and bought the audio guide upon check-in. I highly recommend spending a few dollars on these tours when visiting such monuments. Covering over 135,000 square meters and containing 3,418 rooms, the palace has been a witness to centuries of Spanish history. It serves as the official residence of the Spanish royal family, although it is now only used for state ceremonies. The king’s mother, Queen Sofia, resides in the Palace of Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid. King Felipe and his family live next door in the Pabellón del Príncipe on the palace grounds in a modern home. It was quite busy that day, and it took us a couple of hours to explore the Royal Palace.

Afterwards, we began walking back to our hotel and made a stop at the Mercado de San Miguel, a historic indoor market offering tapas and fresh seafood in a vibrant setting. We took a well-deserved break on a terrace at the Plaza Mayor, which was once the heart of Old Madrid and was initially constructed during the reign of Philip III. Just a few blocks away lies another renowned plaza, the Puerta del Sol, the center (Km 0) of Spain's radial road network. The square also features the famous clock whose chimes signal the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes and the start of a new year.

We enjoyed dinner and a Flamenco show at Tablao Las Carboneras, known as one of the top Flamenco venues in Madrid. It is situated in the historic basement of the old palace of Count Miranda. The food was excellent, with drinks included. The show was mesmerizing, allowing you to truly connect with the dancers' emotions. I highly recommend it when visiting Madrid. Be sure to book in advance.  

On our final day in Spain, we had pre-booked tickets for the Prado Museum, conveniently located just across from our hotel. This museum is among the world's leading art galleries, featuring masterpieces by Velázquez, Goya, and El Greco. We opted for the audio tour but found it disappointing this time. It was quite confusing and did not follow a chronological order. Instead, we used it to gather information about the main paintings we visited. We thoroughly enjoyed viewing hundreds of masterpieces. However, after a few hours, it can become overwhelming, so if you appreciate Spanish painting, it's advisable to set aside a couple of days for your visit to the Prado.

In the afternoon, we took it easy on the City Sightseeing Hop‑On Hop‑Off bus tour. The tour begins near the Prado and takes you around Madrid for a few hours. Although we had visited Madrid before, this non-stop tour is an excellent way to see the city. Our final dinner was at Botin, the world's oldest restaurant, established in 1725. The original oak wood-fired oven, which has been burning since the restaurant's inception, is still a focal point, producing their renowned roast suckling pig and lamb. We had made reservations several weeks in advance and requested a table in the famous cellar, though this is never guaranteed. We arrived a few minutes before our reservation and managed to get a table in the cellar. It was a delightful experience, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

Our two weeks in Northern Spain and Madrid came to an end. We had a fantastic time and enjoyed the culture and history. Everyone we met was friendly and eager to help. Taxi drivers speed a lot, but it is the norm in major European cities. It’s very warm in summer, but we had no choice as the Running of the Bulls is at the beginning of the month of July.

Our two-week trip to Northern Spain and Madrid concluded. We had an amazing experience, appreciating the culture and history. The people we encountered were friendly and eager to help. Be aware that taxi drivers tend to drive fast, which is common in major European cities. The summer heat was intense, but we had to visit in early July to experience the Running of the Bulls.