Carnival Fever in Rio: A Journey to Remember

We had been planning this visit for quite some time and were thrilled when we arrived at the Carlos Jobim Airport. The hotel had arranged for a driver to pick us up, and it took less than an hour to reach the Sheraton Grand Rio Hotel & Resort in Leblon, a beach neighborhood north of Copacabana and Ipanema. It is the only hotel in Rio situated directly on the beach. We were upgraded to a beautiful room with an amazing view of the beach below. We had dinner at Bene, the hotel’s Italian restaurant. It was just okay, and we would not recommend it.

Every morning, we enjoyed an excellent buffet breakfast at L’Etoile, their French restaurant located on the rooftop. We then took a taxi for a 40-minute ride to the city's northern area and began our visit by photographing the Museu de Amanha, designed by renowned Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

Our second destination was the Mosteiro de São Bento, a breathtaking Benedictine abbey and a must-visit in Rio. From there, we took a taxi to the Mercado Sahara (Saara), an outdoor market offering nearly everything, including budget-friendly costumes and props for Carnival. We then walked to our next stop, the Real Gabinete Português da Leitura, the Royal Portuguese Reading Room. Admission is free, giving the public access to one of the world's most stunning libraries.

After lunch, we took photos of the Theatro Municipal do Rio de Janeiro, an opera house constructed in the early twentieth century. The building features an eclectic design, inspired by the Garnier Paris Opéra. Unfortunately, they do not offer tours in English. Just a few minutes away is the Catedral Metropolitana. This modern and distinctive cathedral is cone-shaped and serves as a notable landmark in downtown Rio. We passed by the Arcos da Lapa (Lapa Arches) on our way to the Escadaria Selarón (Selarón Steps). This colorful staircase, created by artist Jorge Selarón, is a mosaic masterpiece that links the neighborhoods of Santa Teresa and Montserrat. It was becoming very crowded as we approached the Convento de Santa Teresa, where one of the most famous “blocos”, the Bloco das Carmelitas, was occurring on the day of our visit. These “blocos” parades are part of the "street carnival" and take place during the Carnival season. Today’s bloco passed by the historic Carmelite Convent, which inspired the costumes. We had dinner at Nam Thai, an excellent and affordable Thai restaurant in Leblon. It’s a small place and they had a great staff.

The weather was beautiful once more the following day, so we decided to explore some of Rio's major attractions. We took a taxi to Corcovado and Christ the Redeemer. The renowned Christ the Redeemer statue is a must-visit in Rio de Janeiro. You can take a train to the summit to enjoy panoramic views of the city. I recommend booking your tickets online in advance, as this attraction requires selecting a time slot. We arrived at the top early in the morning. The visibility was excellent, and it wasn't too crowded yet. The experience was breathtaking.

After our visit, we took a taxi to the northern part of Copacabana, where Sugarloaf Mountain is situated. There is no train service there; you must take two cable cars to reach the summit. You can buy VIP tickets in advance, which provide access to preferential queues at all stations and entry to a VIP lounge at the first station. The view was also breathtaking. We ended up having breakfast at Classico Beach Club Terrace. The view was even more impressive, and it was less crowded, allowing us to take amazing photos (see top photo). On our way back to the hotel, we stopped in Copacabana and strolled between the beaches, hotels, and restaurants. We had dinner at Mr. Lam, a beautiful Chinese restaurant located in a mansion overlooking the Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon. Mr. Lam previously managed the kitchen at Mr. Chow restaurants in London and New York. We had a very good meal.

We took it easy the following day since we had our Carnival reservations at the Sambadrome that evening. We booked our seats through the hotel's concierge several months ahead, and we were not disappointed. With seating for 90,000 people, the Sambadrome offers numerous seating options, and it can take some time to decide what suits your preferences best. Each night, the Sambadrome showcases six different Samba schools over four consecutive nights. The top schools perform on the last two nights, and the best six schools (selected by the judges) give an encore performance on the Saturday after Fat Tuesday. The first samba school begins at 10:00 pm each night, performing for an hour, which means that, with delays, the last school finishes around 6:00 am. We were seated in a front box section called "Frisas." It accommodates eight people, but the seats aren't numbered, so arriving early is essential if you want the best spot close to the action. We had a fantastic time. It's challenging to describe the event's magnitude—you simply have to experience it! The venue offers plenty of amenities, and food and drinks are available at reasonable prices. Shuttle buses pick up guests from their hotels, but if you're in a group of two or more, hiring a private driver is almost cheaper (which is what we did).

The following day, we had lunch at the Leblon Shopping mall. Unaware that the days leading up to Ash Wednesday are holidays in Rio, we found all the shops in the mall closed. After lunch, we strolled along the beach before returning to the hotel to relax by the pool. We had dinner reservations at Satyricon in Ipanema, which offers Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on seafood. The restaurant was bustling, but both the food and service were outstanding.

On our final day, we returned to Ipanema and enjoyed lunch at the renowned Garota de Ipanema (Girl from Ipanema) restaurant, where Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes composed their song inspired by a beautiful girl passing by the window. The staff is very friendly, and the food is both good and affordable. After lunch, we took a taxi to the Palacio at Parque Lage, situated at the base of the Corcovado in the Jardim Botânico neighborhood. We explored the building and took photos of the patio and pool, which served as filming locations for music videos by Pharrell/Snoop Dogg and the Black-Eyed Peas. The Botanical Garden is just a few minutes away. Due to the extreme heat, we opted for the drive-thru golf cart tour, allowing us to explore the 350-acre property in an hour. Founded in 1808 by King John VI of Portugal, this garden is one of the world's great tropical botanical gardens, boasting a collection of over 7,000 species of tropical plants.

We really enjoyed our week in Rio. The weather was wonderful and the people very friendly and festive during the Carnival. Our experience at the Sambadrome will never be forgotten.